Everyone tells first-timers to see Peking opera. I’ll point you somewhere softer and, to my mind, more enchanting: Yue opera (越剧) — the lyrical, romantic opera tradition of Zhejiang, and my favourite cultural night out in China.

What is Yue opera?

Yue opera was born in the early 1900s around Shengzhou (嵊州) in Zhejiang and grew up in Shanghai. Compared to the clashing gongs and acrobatics of Peking opera, it’s gentle, melodic and emotional — think tender love stories sung in flowing, almost folk-song melodies.

Its most striking feature: the casts are predominantly, often entirely, female. Women play the dashing male leads (the xiaosheng) as well as the heroines. If that reminds you of Japan’s famous all-female Takarazuka Revue, you’re not alone — Yue opera is frequently called “China’s Takarazuka,” and the swooning, idealised romance has a similar devoted following.

Zhejiang Xiaobaihua — the troupe to know

The name to look for is the Zhejiang Xiaobaihua Yue Opera Troupe (浙江小百花越剧团) — “Hundred Little Flowers.” Founded in 1984 and long led by the celebrated Mao Weitao (茅威涛), they’re the most acclaimed company in the art form, known for polished, visually gorgeous productions that have toured the world.

Why I love it (and why it works even if you don’t speak Chinese)

• The stories are universal — star-crossed lovers, sacrifice, longing.
• It’s beautiful to simply watch: silk costumes, painted faces, expressive movement.
• The signature piece, “The Butterfly Lovers” (梁山伯与祝英台 / Liang Zhu) — China’s Romeo-and-Juliet — is the perfect introduction. You’ll likely recognise the famous violin melody.
• Other classics include a Yue-opera “Dream of the Red Chamber” (红楼梦).

Many theatres now run English surtitles or shorter highlight programmes aimed at visitors, so the language barrier is far lower than you’d fear.

How to see a show

• Hangzhou is the heartland — the Zhejiang Xiaobaihua and dedicated Yue opera theatres are based here. Pair it with a trip to West Lake.
• Shanghai and Shengzhou also stage regular performances.
• Look for tickets via your hotel concierge, or the theatre’s own box office. A traditional teahouse performance is a lovely, lower-commitment way to sample it first.

If you want one evening that feels genuinely, quietly Chinese — not a tourist spectacle — this is the one I recommend most.